Taking it all in. . .

We're here in Egypt to experience the culture, to take it all in, to drink deeply. But as Dr. Grafton has commented, experiencing Egypt, especially here in Cairo, "is like trying to drink from an open fire hydrant." There is just so much to take in, process and understand. Admittedly, I have felt overwhelmed by all that there is to learn and how and in what compartment my mind will store it all. After Dr. Grafton's lecture the previous evening on "Trends in Islamic Identity" our group headed to Islamic Cairo on Sunday morning. This area of the city dates back to the Fatimid period, or the later middle ages. We went stepping back into history, yet flanked by modernity. Wearing long, flowing skirts, shoulders and arms carefully covered, the fourteen women in our group sported our own versions of wrapping the hijab, or head scarf. Respecting Islamic customs, we removed our shoes prior to entering the mosque - the idea of leaving the dirt of the world outside of these walls.

Obviously tourists, our largely female group (along with Gary and Dr. Grafton) attracted the attention and stares of the al-Azhar university students, making use of the quiet and space within the mosque. For me, my female senses became a bit jarred when a young sheikh addressed our group, explaining how the veil worn by Muslim women was viewed as a "crown". Considering we've seen all manner of hijab, from those that are tastefully draped just over the hair, to those that cover the entire face allowing only the eyes to be seen, it was hard for me to accept the hijab as a "crown" which we see as drawing one's attention to beauty and not hiding it.

I did appreciate the individual designations for personal sacred space outlined on the prayer rugs in the mosque. Facing Mecca, designated by the niche in the wall, I observed individual males using a prescribed formula for engaging the body in prayer within each one's sacred space by clasping one's hands and bowing the head, much like we do, and then going into a kneeling position, again not an unfamiliar practice in many Western Christian churches, and finally rocking forward and placing one's forehead on the rough as prayers are recited.

We were given a pictorial lesson on the various styles of minarets that reflect influences from all over the Middle East. I can now successfully distinguish an Ottoman minaret fro that of a Mamluk minaret!

That evening before going to "Felfellas" for dinner, our group attended part of the evening worship at Qasr al-Dubara Evangelical Presbyterian Church. I really did not expect to see and hear what I encountered - a fairly large western, style church replete with two projection screens and a soundboard and audio system that rocked the walls as the praise band and singers in western fashion led praise songs. Men and women sat together in song, prayer and lengthy(!) Bible study.

It's easy to see in this one day how the force of the water fro the fire hydrant knocks out all expectations and even pummels one about as we all try to make some sense out of what it means to be an Arab, an Egyptian - whether Muslim or Christian in 2009!

Flora